Bibliography - Art and domestic crafts: Clothing, Needlework and Fashion
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Brighton as it Is, 1832: Exhibiting All the Latest Improvements in that Fashionable Watering Place, by W. Batcheller and Edward Wallis, published 1832 (Wallis's royal edition, 79 pp., Brighton: The Booksellers) accessible at: & West Sussex Libraries & East Sussex Libraries

Old Sussex Needlework, by F. H. Arnold, published 1892 in Sussex Archæological Collections (vol. 38, notes & queries, p.211) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 2123] & The Keep [LIB/500256] & S.A.S. library   View Online

Female Head-Dresses. Exemplified by Sussex Brasses, by J. L. André, published 1899 in Sussex Archæological Collections (vol. 42, article, pp.1-18) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 2127] & The Keep [LIB/500260] & S.A.S. library   View Online

Old Sussex Needlework, by F. H. Arnold, F.S.A., published 1906 in Sussex Archæological Collections (vol. 49, notes & queries, pp.168-169) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 2134] & The Keep [LIB/500267] & S.A.S. library   View Online

Brighton: Its History, Its Follies, and Its Fashions, by Lewis Melville, published 1909 (xviii + 249 pp., London: Chapman & Hall) accessible at: & West Sussex Libraries & East Sussex Libraries

Heraldic Needlework at Hove, by Viscountess Wolseley, published 1931 in Sussex County Magazine (vol. V no. 5, article, pp.352-353) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 2310] & The Keep [LIB/500174]

Uniform of the Cinque Ports volunteers in 1859, by Lieut. R.D.M. Cleaver, published December 1932 in Cinque Ports Gazette (vol. 2, no. 6, article, pp.43-44)

Battalion of the Royal Sussex Regiment.

Shepherds of Sussex. XXII - Sheep Crooks; XXIII - Shepherds' clothes; XXIV - Shepherds' Shelters; XXV - Shepherds' Sundials and XXVI - Shepherd's Music , by Barclay Wills, published 1933 in Sussex County Magazine (vol. VII no. 9, article, pp.572-578) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 2312] & The Keep [LIB/500176]

The uniform of the 1st Cinque Ports V.R.C.: the Blue Slouch Hat period, 1901-08, by Lieut.-col. E.A.C. Fazan, published June 1933 in Cinque Ports Gazette (vol. 2, no, 7, article, pp.101-105)

Battalion of the Royal Sussex Regiment.

Uniform of the 1st Administrative Battalion, published December 1933 in Cinque Ports Gazette (vol. 1, no. 8, article, pp.142-142)

Covers 1861-86. Cinque Ports Battalion of the Royal Sussex Regiment.

The Cinque Ports and the American War of Independence (1776-82): shoulder-belt plate of 1778, by E.A.C.F., published December 1935 in Cinque Ports Gazette (vol. 3, no. 12, article, pp.139-141)

Battalion of the Royal Sussex Regiment.

Fashionable Brighton, 1820-1860, by Antony Dale, published 1947 (Country Life Ltd.) accessible at: & West Sussex Libraries & East Sussex Libraries

The Chichester Needle Industry, by Francis W. Steer, F.S.A., published 1963 (Chichester Papers no. 31, Chichester City Council) accessible at: West Sussex Libraries

Dean Burgon's Baby Clothes, by Thomas Denis S. Bayley, published 1963 in Sussex Archæological Collections (vol. 101, article, pp.35-39) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 2186] & The Keep [LIB/500328] & S.A.S. library

Worthing Museum costume collection, by Daphne Bullard, published 1965 in Costume (1(2), article, pp.10-13)

Fashionable Brighton, 1820-1860, by Antony Dale, published 1967 (2nd edition, 192 pp., Newcastle upon Tyne: Oriel Press Ltd.) accessible at: The Keep [LIB/503782] & R.I.B.A. Library & West Sussex Libraries & East Sussex Libraries

The Chichester Needle Industry, by Francis W. Steer, published 1968 (pamphlet) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 2918]

Haute Couture by the Sea, by Joan Ham, published May 1989 in West Sussex History, the Journal of West Sussex Archives Society (no. 43, article, p.17) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 16404/43] & The Keep [LIB/500482]

Bloomsbury Needlepoint: From the Tapestries at Charleston Farmhouse , by Melinda Coss, published 17 September 1992 (120 pp., Ebury Press, ISBN-10: 0091770351 & ISBN-13: 9780091770358) accessible at: West Sussex Libraries & East Sussex Libraries

Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant presided over the decoration of Charleston in a style which still exerts an influence on interior decoration. Needlepoint was favoured both as a pastime and as a key decorative element and this book includes designs for cushions, rugs, chairseats, hangings, firescreens, a Charleston blotter and Virginia Woolf's glasses case. Stitch-by-stitch colour charts, yarn information and detailed instructions make it easy to recreate the spontaneity of the original tapestries and designs, and suggestions for alternative colourways are also given. Some of the designs are based on the murals and paintings rather than the tapestries and Melinda Cross takes a look at the recurring motifs of boats, shells, flowers and cherubs, many inspired by Charleston and its seaside location. Kits are also available of all the designs.

Needlework and Tapestry at Parham Park, by Judith Doré, published 1993 (booklet, 26 pp., Parham Park Ltd, ISBN-10: 0952005808 & ISBN-13: 9780952005803) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 13841]

Dressmakers in Worthing, 1920-1950, by A. Wise, published 1998 in Costume: the journal of the Costume Society (vol. 32, article, pp.82-86) accessible at: British Library

Clothyng of Maketh Man, Goods and Chattels of Some Horsham Tradesmen 1626-1734, by Annabelle F. Hughes, published 1999 (Horsham Museum Society) accessible at: Horsham Museum Society & West Sussex Libraries

French fashion at Petworth, by Peter Hughes, published September 2008 in Apollo : the international magazine of art and antiques (vol. 168, no. 557, article, pp.58-63) accessible at: R.I.B.A. Library

Looks at the French furniture and furnishings acquired by the 3rd Earl of Egremont (1751-1837) for Petworth House in Sussex.

Flinn -- silk dyers of Dublin and Brighton: 1700-1960, by Nicholas Fleischmann, published 2009 in Dublin Historical Record (vol. 62, no. 1, article, pp.78-82)

"Garments so Chequered": the Bible of Citeaux, the Bayeux Tapestry and the Vair Pattern, by D. Phoenix, published September 2010 in The Antiquaries Journal (vol. 90, article, pp.195-210)   View Online

The Bayeux Tapestry depicts three curious chequered garments. These garments are usually identified as gambesons, or some form of scaled armour. Several scholars have observed similar garments in the early twelfth-century Bible of Cîteaux. The Cîteaux garments are depicted in a pattern later used to represent fur (called 'vair') in heraldic art. This identification is confirmed by the pattern's usage in cloak linings, but its simultaneous appearance as tunic material is unfamiliar in later art. The Cîteaux tunics suggest the possibility that the Bayeux garments may also have been intended to represent fur tunics. Reasons for that identification, as well as problems with the identification, are considered.

A Pair of Grass-Green Woollen Stockings': The Clothing of the Rural Poor in Seventeenth-Century Sussex, by Danae Tankard, published 2012 in Textile History (vol. 43, article, pp.5-22)   View Online

This article examines the clothing of the rural poor in seventeenth-century Sussex, considering what men and women wore, what their clothing was made of and where they got it from, drawing on a broad range of documentary sources including legal depositions, probate material and overseers' accounts. As would be expected, the clothing of this social group was primarily functional, reflecting limited budgets and arduous working lives. But we can see in the choice of fabric colour, trimmings and accessories that men and women were concerned about their appearance and could achieve a measure of social display, at least in their 'holiday' clothes. The ways in which the poor acquired their clothes were complex, involving them in overlapping spheres of production and distribution, which included home production and shop-bought ready-to-wear, all accommodated within a range of economic survival strategies.

The Bayeux Tapestry, by Gale R. Owen-Crocker, published 24 December 2012 (374 pp., Routledge, ISBN-10: 1409446638 & ISBN-13: 9781409446637)   View Online

This collection of fifteen papers ranges from the author's initial interest in the Tapestry as a source of information on early medieval dress, through to her startling recognition of the embroidery's sophisticated narrative structure. Developing the work of previous authors who had identified graphic models for some of the images, she argues that not just the images themselves but the contexts from which they were drawn should be taken in to account in 'reading' the messages of the Tapestry. In further investigating the minds and hands behind this, the largest non-architectural artefact surviving from the Middle Ages, she ranges over the seams, the embroidery stitches, the language and artistry of the inscription, the potential significance of borders and the gestures of the figures in the main register, always scrutinising detail informatively. She identifies an over-riding conception and house style in the Tapestry, but also sees different hands at work in both needlecraft and graphics. Most intriguingly, she recognises an sub-contractor with a Roman source and a clownish wit. The author is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture at The University of Manchester, UK, a specialist in Old English poetry, Anglo-Saxon material culture and medieval dress and textiles.
Contents:

• Preface, Shirley Ann Brown
• Introduction
• Part I Textile: Behind the Bayeux Tapestry; The Bayeux 'tapestry': invisible seams and visible boundaries; Fur, feathers, skin, fibre, wood: representational techniques in the Bayeux Tapestry
• Part II Sources: Reading the Bayeux Tapestry through Canterbury eyes; Stylistic variation and Roman influence in the Bayeux Tapestry
• Part III Narrative Devices: The embroidered word: text in the Bayeux Tapestry. Telling a tale: narrative techniques in the Bayeux Tapestry and the Old English epic Beowulf; Brothers, rivals and the geometry of the Bayeux Tapestry
• Part IV Borders: Squawk talk: commentary by birds in the Bayeux Tapestry?; The Bayeux tapestry: the voice from the border
• Part V Dress: The Bayeux 'tapestry': culottes, tunics and garters and the making of the hanging; Dress and authority in the Bayeux Tapestry
• Part VI Detail: Embroidered wood: animal-headed posts in the Bayeux 'Tapestry'; The interpretation of gesture in the Bayeux Tapestry; Hawks and horse-trappings: the insignia of rank
• Index.

Giles Moore's Clothes: The Clothing of a Sussex Rector,1656-1679, by Danae Tankard, published 2015 in Costume (vol. 49, article, pp.32-54)   View Online

This article uses the household account book of Giles Moore, rector of Horsted Keynes in Sussex from 1656 to 1679, to explore clothing production, supply and consumption in rural England in the second half of the seventeenth century. Moore's detailed record-keeping provides an insight into the supply and acquisition of textiles and clothing, as well as the clothing choices of a well-to-do country parson. A careful analysis of this underused source reveals Moore's attitudes to shopping and clothing through his selection of shops, trade and craftsmen, his concerns about excessive prices, and his cloth, clothing and accessory choices. The article examines the range of shopping opportunities that were available to Moore and which ones he made use of, arguing that he exercised a high degree of consumer choice, made possible by a well-developed shopping culture. As well as the costs of his own clothing, Moore's book records expenditure on that of his teenage niece, Martha Mayhew. In contrast to Moore's shopping choices, we can see that Martha's were considerably more circumscribed. This is consistent with recent studies of seventeenth-century consumption which have identified men rather than women as primary shoppers.

?They tell me they were in fashion last year?: Samuel and Elizabeth Jeake and clothing fashions in late seventeenth-century London and Rye, by Danae Tankard, published 2016 in Costume (50(1), article, pp.20-41)

Intertextuality in the Bayeux Tapestry: the form and function of dress and clothing, by Michael Lewis, published 2016 in Textiles, Text, Intertext: Essays in Honour of Gale R. Owen-Crocker (article, pp.69-84)

Late 16th-century domestic wall painting: an example from Fittleworth, West Sussex, by Danae Tankard, published 2016 in Sussex Archæological Collections (vol. 154, article, pp.195-208) accessible at: W.S.R.O. [Lib 18939] & The Keep [LIB/509465] & S.A.S. library

Harriet Gladman Embroidery, by Geoffrey Barber, published December 2017 in Sussex Past & Present (no. 143, article, pp.10-11, ISSN: 1357-7417) accessible at: The Keep [LIB/507923] & S.A.S. library

Child's bed cover tells the poignant story of a yuong woman's life